Styles
Styles emulate trees that have developed according to the forces of nature. It is easy to go around blinkered to the wonderful diversity of tree shapes. Once you are into bonsai that “luxury” is no longer an option. You will regularly find yourself distracted by superb specimens that “stand out from the crowd”. Some care may even be necessary not to let this new obsession cause danger to yourself and others, whilst driving for example. When you spot a superb specimen try to understand what it is about that tree that makes it special. Photograph or sketch it if possible. Really look at the shape of trees and then use your skills to recreate an impression of those natural specimens.
An example. The windswept style grows where strong winds kill off all the buds facing into the prevailing wind direction. Note that the tree does not bend away from the wind. Only trees which survive in harsh climates will develop naturally in this way. Junipers, Pines, Hawthorns, Larches etc. The style would be inappropriate for Maples, Willows, Alders, or any other tree that grows only in more sheltered surroundings. Trees which are “one-sided” (lacking branches on the other side) suggest themselves for development in this style or as a raft style.
Traditional bonsai styles are amply covered in almost every bonsai book. These accepted styles are developing over time to include new shapes that reflect the trees observed in the growers environments.
Pots
The containers for bonsai have a long and fascinating history. Their study, appreciation and collection becomes yet another arm of the pastime. The pot for a tree is like a frame for a painting and should be chosen so that it is in complete harmony and is not intrusive.
It often comes down to a personal, gut reaction type of decision when choosing the right pot for a tree. Often a pot looks fine when you first use it, but you may change your mind as time passes and you become more attuned to the nuances of the art. There are useful guidelines that can be followed and these help to avoid basic mistakes.
Size
The tree determines the size of pot necessary. Tall trees generally need a pot width that is approximately two thirds the height of the tree. Wide trees need a pot that is about two thirds of the canopy width. These ideal sizes may need to be adapted while a tree is in training. The root system could require amendments in its layout and perhaps some reduction to fit. This is part of the horticultural knowledge that will be built with time and experience. If in any doubt about root reduction during repotting, do it with the assistance at a local club in one of their spring meetings or take the tree along to a good bonsai nursery at repotting time.
Colour
Avoid bright glazes unless the colour is intended to harmonise with a flowering or fruiting specimen. Unglazed muted colours and dark glazes are suited to Pines. It is often said that brighter glazes are acceptable for mame trees. I still prefer to choose a glaze that is in harmony and not too garish.
Shape
There are a multitude of pot styles and the array can be quite bewildering to a beginner. Study photographs of bonsai masterpieces, make mental notes of pots that you admire and the type and style of tree that it is used for.
Decoration
Many antique pots are highly decorated with pictorial scenes in the glazes, applied patterns and carvings. These largely fell out of favour as the Japanese applied zen principles to bonsai. Some very attractive examples of highly decorated pots are now being imported. If they are attractive to you, they can be used, but care should be exercised that they do not dominate the tree.
The traditional guidelines, that may be followed when selecting a pot type, are shown in the table below:
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