The Art of Japanese Bonsai
The major aspects of Japanese bonsai, has not changed significantly over time.
Bonsai initially originated in Egypt thousands of years ago and moved to China. From China bonsai moved to Japan. Where the Japanese perfected the art of bonsai. Japanese use azaleas to create magnificent bonsai following years of pruning, wiring and careful attention. The Japanese art of bonsai, and its precursor, the Chinese art of penjing, are rooted in the traditions of Asian culture.
The art of raising bonsai dwarfed potted trees has enabled the Japanese to admire nature in an indoor setting. The art of bonsai, as developed in America, is much freer in concept and style than Japanese bonsai.
The quality of a bonsai tree is measured on how well it portrays nature in miniature form. A bonsai should have a well tapered trunk and have branches all around the tree to give the bonsai visual depth. The art of bonsai involves the bringing together of tree and pot in visual harmony. “Bonsai” simply means “potted tree.” But many of the really fine specimens have been pruned for more than 100 years.
Requiring many years of devoted attention and care to produce, the bonsai extends beauty and expresses the significance of life. The care involved in creating and shaping a bonsai is considered a form of meditation in and of itself.
Over time, bonsai began to take on different styles, each which varied immensely from one another. Today, hardy as well as tropical indoor bonsai are trained in classic styles, including windswept, slanted trunk, rock clinging, and forest. Bonsai are highly regarded as a symbol of Japanese culture and ideals. Contrary to popular belief, bonsai are not tortured trees. A bonsai may have areas of dead wood to give an impression of age. There are several techniques available to the bonsai grower to increase the apparent age.
No longer exclusively an oriental art form, today bonsai is practiced by thousands of people around the world, on every continent. The art of bonsai is the art of imitating the spirit of nature. A bonsai industry of considerable size exists in certain sections of Japan.
Bonsai Styles
Over the years many styles to classify Bonsai trees have been advanced closely resembling circumstances in nature. These styles are open to personal interpretation and creativity, meaning that trees do not necessarily need to strictly conform to a style. Still, the styles are important to gain a basic understanding of Bonsai shapes and serve as guidelines to successfully train miniature trees.
Broom style Bonsai
HokidachiThe broom style is suited for deciduous trees with extensive, fine branching. The trunk is straight and upright and does not continue to the top of the tree; it branches out in all directions about 1/3 of the way up the entire height of the tree. In this manner the branches and leaves form a ball-shaped crown which can also be very beautiful during the winter months.
Formal upright Bonsai style
ChokkanThe formal upright style is a very common form of Bonsai. This style occurs often in nature, especially when the tree is exposed to lots of light and does not face the problem of competing trees. For this style, tapering of the upright-growing trunk must be clearly visible. The trunk must therefore be thicker at the bottom and must grow increasingly thinner with the height. At about 1/4 of the total length of the trunk, branching should begin. The top of the tree should be formed by a single branch; the trunk should not span the entire height of the tree.
Informal upright Bonsai style
MoyogiThe informal upright style is common in both nature and in the art of Bonsai. The trunk grows upright roughly in the shape of a letter ‘S’ and at every turn branching occurs. Tapering of the trunk must be clearly visible, with the base of the trunk thicker than the higher portions.
Slanting Bonsai style
ShakkanAs a result of the wind blowing in one dominant direction or when a tree is in the shadow and must bend toward the sun, the tree will lean in one direction. With Bonsai, the leaning style should grow at an angle of about 60 - 80 degrees relative to the ground. The roots are well developed on one side to keep the tree standing. On the side toward which the tree is leaning, the roots are clearly not as well developed. The first branch grows opposite the direction of the tree, in order to balance it. The trunk can be slightly bent or completely straight, but still be thicker at the bottom than at the top.
Cascade Bonsai style
KengaiA tree living in the nature on a steep cliff can bend downward as a result of several factors, like snow or falling rocks. These factors cause the tree to grow downward. With Bonsai it can be difficult to maintain a downward-growing tree because the direction of growth opposes the tree’s natural tendency to grow upright. Cascade Bonsai are planted in tall pots. The tree should grow upright for a small distance but then bend downward. The crown of the tree usually grows above the rim of the pot, but the subsequent branches alternate left and right on the outermost curves of the S-shaped trunk. These branchings should grow out horizontally in order to maintain the balance of the tree.
Semi cascade Bonsai style
Han-kengaiThe semi-cascade style, just like the cascade style, is found in nature on cliffs and on the banks of rivers and lakes. The trunk grows upright for a small distance and then bends downward. Unlike the cascade style, the semi-cascade trunk will never grow below the bottom of the pot. The crown is usually above the rim of the pot while subsequent branching occurs below the rim.
Literati Bonsai style
BunjingiIn nature this style of tree grows in areas densely populated by many other trees and competition is so fierce that the tree can only survive by growing taller then all others around it. The trunk grows crookedly upward and is completely without branching because the sun only hits the top of the tree. To make sure that it looks even tougher, some branches are “Jinned” (without bark). When the bark has been removed from one side of the trunk, the trunk is referred to as a “Shari”. The idea is to demonstrate that the tree really has to struggle to survive. These trees are often placed in small, round pots.
Windswept Bonsai style
FukinagashiThe windswept style is also a good example of trees that must struggle to survive. The branches as well as the trunk grow to one side as though the wind has been blowing the tree constantly in one direction. The branches grow out on all sides of the trunk but will all eventually be bent to one side.
Double trunk style Bonsai
SokanThe double trunk style is common in nature, but is not actually that common in the art of Bonsai. Usually both trunks will grow out of one root system, but it is also possible that the smaller trunk grows out of the larger trunk just above the ground. The two trunks will vary in both thickness and length, the thicker and more developed trunk grows nearly upright, while the smaller trunk will grow out a bit slanted. Both trunks will contribute to a single crown of leaves.
Multitrunk Bonsai style
KabudachiIn theory the multi trunk style is the same as the double trunk style, but with 3 or more trunks. All the trunks grow out of one root system, and it truly is one single tree. All the trunks form one crown of leaves, in which the thickest and most developed trunk forms the top.
Forest Bonsai style
Yose-ueThe forest style looks a lot like the multi-trunk style, but the difference is that it is comprised of several trees rather than one tree with several trunks. The most developed trees are planted in the middle of a large and shallow pot. On the sides of the pot a few smaller trees are planted to contribute to one single crown. The trees are planted not in a straight line but in a staggered pattern, because this way the forest looks natural.
Growing on a rock Bonsai style
Seki-joju
On rocky terrain, trees must search for nurient rich soil with their roots, which can often be found in cracks and holes. The roots are unprotected before they reach the ground so they must protect themselves from the sun: a special bark grows around them. With Bonsai the roots grow over a rock into the pot, so caring for this tree isn’t really different from caring for any other style.
Growing in a rock Bonsai style
IshisukiIn this style the roots of the tree are growing in the cracks and holes of the rock. This means that there is not much room for the roots to develop and absorb nutrients. Trees growing in rocks will never look really healthy, thus it should be visible that the tree has to struggle to survive. It is important to fertilize and water this style often, because there is not much space available to store water and nutrients. The rock in which the Bonsai grows is often placed in a very shallow pot, which is sometimes filled with water of very fine stones.
Raft Bonsai style
/b> IkadabukiSometimes a cracked tree can survive by pointing its branches upward. The old root system can provide the branches with enough nutrients. After a while new roots will start growing, eventually taking over the function of the old root system. The old branches which now point into the air develop into trunks with multiple branchings as a result of the increased influx of nutrients. These new trunks contribute to one single crown.
Shari Bonsai style
SharimikiAs time passes, some trees develop bald or barkless places on their trunks as a result of harsh weather conditions. The barkless portion usually begins at the place where the roots emerge from the ground, and grows increasingly thinner as it continues up the trunk. Intense sunlight will bleach these parts, forming a very characteristic portion of the tree. With Bonsai the bark is removed with a very sharp knife and the barkless spot is treated with calcium sulfate in order to speed up the bleaching process.
Bonsai Tree: Everything You Need To Know
Saturday, December 25th, 2010 at 7:38 am from My Crochet Tips
When it comes to caring for your Bonsai tree you can find several popular pitfalls you should avoid so that you can sustain the health of the miniature tree.
Well, let’s begin using the meaning of the word itself. Bonsai, first of all, can be a Japanese word and might be translated as ‘a tree in a pot’. The art of bonsai growing, however, didn’t originate in Japan but in China. The art of pun-sai growing was known as penjing.
All of these types are deeply rooted in Chinese myths and legends.
Later on, when the Japanese learned of this new art form, the meaning changed as well. The Buddhist monks that brought bonsai growing to Japan viewed these trees as a symbol for harmony between nature, man and soul. With that, the type of the trees also changed. Gone were the bizarre and grotesque shapes of twisting serpents and fierce dragons. They started to represent all that was good.
Buddhist monks had a fantastic influence on the art and practice of bonsai growing that has never quite disappear. That becoming said, most of the bonsai tree meaning was lost to the general public within the final couple of decades. I’ll leave it to you to determine if that is a great issue or not.
However, in case you do turn into a bonsai artist and commence growing your own trees, as opposed to just observing them or shopping for trees that somebody else has created for you, you’ll obtain that taking care of bonsai still possessed a spiritual note. You will have to connect to the tree, comprehend it, see exactly where it wants to grow and then gently direct it into the desired direction. And throughout all this process, you may discover some thing new inside of you. You could discover that indescribable thing that has captivated so many. With that, you just might find your own meaning of bonsai trees.
In this write-up we will talk about probably the most prevalent troubles skilled and methods to keep your Bonsai tree healthy.
The Leaves On Your Bonsai Tree:
Depending on whether you Bonsai tree is deciduous or not will establish if it need to naturally shred it leaves throughout autumn plus the winter months. Obviously, if your Bonsai tree is an Evergreen then it really should have leaves all year round
If you are concerned take a appear at the colour of the leaves. Typically speaking, if they’re yellow in appearance and brittle to the touch this signifies a lack of water.
Watering Your Bonsai Tree:
Depending on its environment a Bonsai tree will need to be watered regularly. You should by no means let your Bonsai tree wither or come to be dehydrated. Similarly your Bonsai tree must never be saturated with water. Thus adequate drainage holes at the base of your Bonsai pot or container will need to be produced obtainable so as not to rot or damage the fragile root system. It’s an excellent ideal then to get into the habit of watering your Bonsai tree a bit everyday.
How to Feed and Water a Bonsai Tree
January 2, 2011 by khanhdoanWatering a Bonsai Tree
The water requirements of bonsai vary, depending on the type of tree, whether the tree is kept indoors or outdoors and on the humidity conditions of the plant’s environment. Providing a bonsai with the proper amount of water is vital. A tree can be quickly killed as a result of under- or over-watering.
The shallow pots that bonsai are traditionally planted in can quickly become dried out. Since these trees take so long to create, it is worth the effort to learn how to properly water and feed them.
Bonsais should never be allowed to dry out. Keep the soil moist at all times, but do not let the tree become waterlogged, as the roots will begin to rot if they remain too wet for a prolonged period of time.
Although outdoor trees will get rainfall, do not assume that rain is providing an adequate amount of moisture for the tree. The tree’s canopy may block water from falling on the soil below. It may be necessary to hand water using a watering can with a fine rose spout.
Indoor bonsai can be watered by submerging their container, soil and all, in a bowl of water. When air bubbles stop rising to the surface of the water, the plant can be removed from the bowl and allowed to drain. Indoor bonsai can also be watered using a can with a fine rose.
The soil moisture of a bonsai should be checked every day, and during spring, summer and fall, they often need to be watered daily. Outdoor trees that go dormant during winter may not need much more watering that the rain and snow provide. Trees that are indoors will also need less water in winter, but should not be allowed to completely dry out.
Fertilizing a Potted Bonsai Tree
Bonsai also require food in order to thrive. The easiest way to provide a consistent flow of fertilizer is to purchase pellets or cakes that are specifically formulated for feeding bonsai trees. Specialized fertilizers can easily be obtained from bonsai suppliers online.General balanced liquid or pellet plant fertilizers with nitrogen : phosphorus : potassium (N:P:K) ratios of 6:12:10 can be used to feed bonsai spring through early fall. Follow directions on the label for using the proper amount. In late fall bonsais should be switched to a low or no nitrogen mixture (0:10:10) to prepare for dormancy.
Bonsai Tree Trimming For The Win!
Posted: Dec 22, 2010 Article by yuki
Trimming your (first) Bonsai tree can be challenging. You have the right tools, but you're still wondering "is this a good idea?" Well, you might want to read this first: ).Before we start, if you are a beginner to the bonsai, I highly recommend you get a guidebook. Try to get one with pictures, and also one that is easy to understand. I guarantee it will end up saving you time, money and most importantly, your bonsai.
Bonsai trimming is definitely an art. By trimming your bonsai plant, you are not only shaping it up to look artistic, but you are also helping to keep it small and growing healthy. Most bonsai trees will only need to be trimmed two or three times a year.
It is important that you learn about the type of tree you have so that you can prune it at the right time or you may end up with a "not-so-happy" bonsai plant. But as a general rule of thumb, trimming times are, 1) at the start of spring, 2) at the end of summer, and sometimes 3) during late autumn or winter. For the most part, the bulk of the trimming should be done at the start of spring when your bonsai plant will be experiencing vigorous growth.
You can always talk to the specialist at the bonsai nursery when buying your tree to learn when you should do the trimming for that specific type of tree etc.
Many beginners make the mistake of shearing their bonsai as they would a bush or hedge or head. Rather than a big bushy bunch, (or bald) you want your plant to look more like a miniature replica of a mature tree. Keep the branches growing toward open space and away from each other. Don't get too carried away with pruning; bonsai just like normal trees need to have enough leaves as they are the primary organs of photosynthesis*. Only excess leaves and unwanted limbs should be removed.
*Photosynthesis is the process in which the energy of sunlight is collected and used to make sugars. These sugars are then transported to other parts of the tree and used for nutrition.
Heavy trimming usually only takes place once or twice in the life of a bonsai Plant. Nipping or pinching is the technique used after the basic shape and form of the tree is established. This involves pinching back any new and unwanted growth either at the top of the plant or growth that doesn't come within the general and desired shape of your bonsai tree. It is performed by holding the branch with one hand and pinching the unwanted growth between the forefinger and thumb of the other and removing it with a twisting motion. This is one of the main forms of pruning, especially Evergreen Coniferous bonsai like Cedars and Hemlock (Tsuga Canadensis or Tsuga Heterophylla).For these types of bonsai trees it is better than using scissors as they will leave an unnatural look and browning may occur on the leaves. It's also a good and easy way to control new growth, shape the plant, and help develop good foliage.
When your bonsai plant is still young, it's a good idea to leave the branches that surround any weak parts of the tree trunk. This will help it to become stronger. Removing branches from areas where several are growing helps to reduce the cluttered look as well as keep the area from being overrun with foliage. Thinning out some of the branches in the right places will make a better-looking as well as healthier tree.
When you are doing your bonsai trimming, make sure that you get an even look. Cutting away too many branches while ignoring the trunk will cause the tree to grow awkwardly. It will do this in an attempt to balance itself out. The following season, it may look strange and not at all as you planned. To prevent this, trim the trunk in proportion to the branches and vice versa. In other words, make sure to balance out the height of the tree with the width so it looks natural.
The bonsai trimming tools that you use on your tree should be suitable for the tree's size. You do not want to use large shears to trim a miniature tree. Likewise, you need fatter blades to effectively snip off the branches of a full size bonsai. The blades should be short and sharp so they can make clean cuts. Dull blades can damage the tree, especially when used on the trunk. But I'll post more on tools later.
After trimming your bonsai, training wire can be used to force the branches of your bonsai tree to grow in a certain way. Bonsai specialists sometimes use this material if they want a certain look for their tree. It will not harm* the tree's branches at all.
Attach the wire to a section of the branch, and then secure it to another branch or the tree trunk, depending on the direction you want it to grow. I will post more on this later too.
*Caution is advised when attempting to train your branches with wire. If the tree is dehydrated, bending the branch even slightly may cause the branch to split or crack. Also make sure your bonsai is in a strong and healthy condition before applying the "Wire Training Technique"
To re-cap.
-Trimming and pruning your bonsai will keep it looking nice, growing the way you want it to, and healthy.
-Research the type of bonsai you have to get specifics on its customized care.
-Bonsai trimming times are, 1.Start of Spring, 2.End of summer, 3.Late Autumn or Winter. Don't miss them!
-A bonsai is meant to look like a miniature replica of the mature tree.
-Don't cut too many leaves off your bonsai plant. They supply "plant food".
-Remember the Nipping and Pinching technique.
-Keep your bonsais width and height in proportion.
-Use the right bonsai trimming tools.
-Wire Training is a good option for custom tree shaping.
Securing Your Tree in the Pot
A tree which has become established inside a pot is secure in it too. However when this tree is removed from the pot, the soil removed and fresh soil put in, the tree is not stable nor is it able to remain in the pot should a gust of wind or other disturbance cause it to topple. As a result one needs to ensure that the tree is properly secured in the pot, not only for the reasons just given but also to allow the roots to spread unhindered by constant movement or vibration.
There are several ways of securing your tree in it's pot once repotting has been completed. These can include the use of sticks passed through the root ball and then secured by wire to the pot. You could use a framework of sticks placed inside at the bottom of pot to which wire has been connected and to which you will secure your trees. This latter method as well as a wire mesh type platform if often used in forests as it allows a lot of flexibility for tree placement.
 | Certainly the most common method of securing your tree into the pot is by means of wire. To use this method simply insert wire or wires through the drainage holes in your pot or through the holes intended for this purpose found on the base of some pots. Cross the wires over a thicker root and twist the wires together to secure the tree. Cut off the excess wire to neaten up a little. |
 | If using the above or any other method where wire is used, make sure to protect the root over which you twist the wire or it will be damaged. |
